Frost protection for plants: free fixes first, then fleece and cloches

By Gary Hodson · 20 August 2026. What to cover, when to cover it, and why half the kit you need is already in your house.

To protect plants from frost, cover anything tender before nightfall whenever the forecast shows 4°C or below with clear skies and light wind. You do not need to buy anything to start: an old net curtain, an upturned cardboard box or a cut-down plastic bottle over a single plant all trap enough air to take the edge off a light frost. For repeated use through autumn and winter, horticultural fleece and cloches do the same job better and last for years. The other half of frost protection is timing, and that starts with knowing your area's first frost date.

Step one: find your first frost date

Every job on this page counts backwards from one date. Our free lookup shows the typical first and last frost dates for your postcode, from Met Office observations.

Get my frost dates ›

Free frost protection you already own

Before you spend a penny, raid the house. Frost protection is about trapping a layer of still air around the plant overnight, and plenty of household items do exactly that.

Old net curtains

A net curtain draped over plants works much like horticultural fleece: it lets light and moisture through while holding a layer of air around the leaves. Peg the edges down with stones or bricks so it cannot blow off, and take it off mid-morning so the plants get full light and airflow. Charity shops sell them for pennies if yours are long gone.

Upturned cardboard boxes and buckets

For a single tender plant, an upturned cardboard box, bucket or flower pot placed over it in the late afternoon holds the day's warmth around the plant overnight. Remove it in the morning, every morning. A box left on for days will starve the plant of light. Cardboard also collapses when wet, so this is a dry-night fix rather than a season-long one.

Cut-down plastic bottles

A 2-litre drinks bottle with the bottom cut off is a free cloche for a seedling or a young plant. Push it into the soil so it cannot blow away, and leave the cap off for ventilation. This is the same trick Victorian gardeners paid good money for in glass.

Move and huddle your pots

Container plants feel the cold before anything in the ground, because their roots have no surrounding soil to insulate them. Move pots against a south-facing or west-facing house wall, which releases stored daytime warmth overnight, and cluster them together so they shelter each other. It costs nothing and it is often the single most effective move on this page.

Cheap kit worth buying once

Horticultural fleece

Fleece is the workhorse. A single layer of 30gsm horticultural fleece gives around 2°C of protection, according to the RHS, and unlike a box or bucket it can stay on for a few days at a stretch because light and rain pass through it and air can still circulate. Drape it loosely rather than wrapping it tight, weigh the edges down, and use a double layer when the forecast turns properly cold. A roll lasts for years if you dry it before storing it.

Cloches

A cloche is a mini greenhouse for one plant. A bell cloche over a young courgette or a newly planted tomato traps daytime warmth and releases it slowly through the night. The one rule: ventilate on sunny days, because the temperature inside climbs fast even in spring sunshine. The cut-down bottle above is the free version; the glass or rigid plastic version simply lasts longer and holds heat better.

Cold frames

A cold frame is a bottomless box with a clear lid, and it earns its keep twice a year: hardening off seedlings in spring and sheltering pots of not-quite-hardy plants through winter. You can build one from old bricks and a salvaged window for nothing, which is how most allotment cold frames start life.

The fleece and cloche links above are affiliate links to Gardening Naturally, a UK organic gardening supplier. If you buy through them we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Frost Warnings and Weekly Jobs

Practical UK gardening tips three times a week (Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays), including frost planning, seasonal jobs and free calculators.

What to protect, at what stage

Not everything in the garden needs saving. Match the effort to the plant.

Plant typeExamplesWhat to do about frost
Tender Tomatoes, basil, courgettes, dahlias, pelargoniums, fuchsias Cannot take frost at all. Cover on every frost night, or lift and bring under cover before the first frost arrives.
Half-hardy Penstemons, salvias, some herbs Tolerate a light, brief frost but suffer in a hard or prolonged one. Fleece on cold nights; mulch the roots.
Hardy Brassicas, leeks, roses, most UK shrubs and trees No routine protection needed. Watch new spring growth and blossom, which a late frost can scorch even on hardy plants.
Seedlings of any plant Everything freshly sown or newly planted out Treat as tender regardless of the parent plant's hardiness. Small plants have no reserves to regrow from.

The RHS notes that plants need a spell of cold weather to build frost resistance, so a sudden early frost can catch even hardy plants that have not yet acclimatised. That is why the first frost of autumn and the last frost of spring do more damage than the depths of January. For the detail on which temperatures damage which plants, see our guide to what temperature kills plants.

The two count-back windows before your first frost

Autumn frost protection is not one job on one night. It is two windows of work, counted backwards from your area's typical first frost date. Look up your date by postcode, then put these two windows in the diary.

Three weeks before: the salvage window

One week before: the shelter window

Typical dates are a guide, not a promise

First frost dates are drawn from past observations, and any single year can run earlier or later. Use the count-back windows for planning, then watch the five-day forecast to pick the actual nights you cover up.

On the night: a simple routine

  1. Check the overnight forecast in the afternoon. The Met Office says frost may be possible when 0°C to 4°C is forecast with little or no cloud and light winds.
  2. Cover tender plants in the late afternoon, while some daytime warmth is still in the soil.
  3. Peg or weigh everything down. A cover that blows off at 2am protected nothing.
  4. Uncover mid-morning once the air has warmed, so plants get light and air.

For a postcode-level view on borderline nights, our Garden Weather Forecast shows an Estimated Frost Risk Tonight built from live Met Office forecast data.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to cover plants at 2°C?
If they are tender plants, yes. The Met Office says frost may be possible when 0°C to 4°C is forecast on a night with little or no cloud and light winds, and the temperature at ground level can drop lower than the forecast figure. A 2°C forecast on a clear, calm night is a cover-up night for tomatoes, basil, dahlias and anything else tender. Hardy plants can be left alone.
Will one frost kill my plants?
It depends on the plant. One air frost is usually enough to kill tender plants such as basil, tomatoes and courgettes outright. Half-hardy plants may be scorched but often regrow. Hardy plants shrug it off. Frost damage is not always fatal either: the RHS advises leaving damaged growth in place until the risk of frost has passed, because many plants shoot again from lower down.
When should I fleece my plants?
Cover tender plants in the late afternoon whenever the overnight forecast shows 4°C or below with clear skies and light wind, then uncover them mid-morning once the air has warmed so light and air can reach the leaves. Keep fleece to hand from about three weeks before your area's typical first frost date in autumn, and right through to the last frost date in spring.

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About the guidance. Frost-formation conditions are attributed to the Met Office. Fleece protection figures, plant acclimatisation and the advice on lifting tender perennials and leaving frost-damaged growth are attributed to the RHS at the links above. Frost dates in the calculator are drawn from Met Office HadUK-Grid observations for 1991 to 2020 and describe typical years, not this year's forecast.