What to Plant in February

Vegetables to Sow and Plant in February

February marks the real start of the growing season for serious vegetable gardeners. While it may still feel like the depths of winter outside, indoors the windowsills and heated propagators should be buzzing with activity. This is the month when your planning and preparation finally translate into action — the first seeds are sown, potatoes are chitted, and beds are prepared for the rush of spring planting ahead.

Sowing Indoors

Tomatoes can be sown from late February if you are in southern England and have a warm, bright windowsill or a heated propagator. Sow seeds thinly in small pots or module trays filled with seed compost, cover with a thin layer of vermiculite, and keep at 18-21°C. Varieties like Gardeners' Delight, Sungold and Moneymaker are reliable choices for UK conditions. Do not sow too early in northern areas — without enough light, seedlings become leggy and weak. If in doubt, wait until early March.

Peppers, aubergines and chillies need a long growing season, so February is the time to get them started if you did not sow in January. These crops need warmth to germinate — a heated propagator set to 20-25°C is ideal. Peppers can take 10-14 days to emerge, so be patient and keep the compost moist but not waterlogged. Once seedlings appear, move them to the brightest windowsill you have.

Broad beans sown in modules indoors during February will be ready to plant out in March or April, giving them a strong head start. Sow one seed per module, 5cm deep, and keep in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame. The variety Aquadulce Claudia is particularly hardy and well-suited to early sowing.

Lettuce sown indoors in February will provide the earliest spring salad leaves. Sow thinly in a seed tray on a bright windowsill and keep at around 15°C. Lettuce germinates poorly above 25°C, so avoid placing trays directly above radiators. Cut-and-come-again varieties like Salad Bowl provide multiple harvests from a single sowing.

Basil can be started on a warm windowsill in late February, giving you fresh leaves well before any garden centre has plants available. Sow thinly on the surface of moist compost (basil needs light to germinate) and cover the pot with cling film until seedlings appear. Keep warm and well-lit — basil detests cold draughts.

Chitting Potatoes

If you have not already started, February is the month to chit your seed potatoes. Stand them upright in egg boxes or shallow trays with the rose end (the end with the most eyes) pointing upwards. Place them in a cool, light, frost-free position — a spare bedroom windowsill, a porch, or a bright garage. By late February, they should have developed sturdy, dark-coloured sprouts 2-3cm long. These chitted potatoes will establish faster when planted out in March or April, giving you earlier harvests. First earlies like Rocket or Swift are ideal for the earliest plantings.

Preparing Beds

February is the perfect time to prepare your growing beds for the busy months ahead. On dry days, fork over empty beds to break up compacted soil and incorporate well-rotted compost or manure. Cover prepared beds with black polythene or weed-suppressing membrane to warm the soil — even a few degrees of warmth makes a significant difference to early sowings. By the time March arrives, your soil will be several weeks ahead of uncovered ground.

If you are creating new beds, use our soil calculator to work out exactly how much topsoil you need. For enriching existing beds with organic matter, the compost calculator will help you calculate the right amount.

Sowing Outdoors

Parsnips need the longest growing season of any common vegetable, so getting them sown as early as soil conditions allow is important. In southern England, late February sowings under cloches can work well if the soil is not waterlogged. Sow seeds 2cm deep in rows 30cm apart. Parsnip seed is notoriously slow to germinate (up to 4 weeks), so be patient and do not assume the sowing has failed. Always use fresh seed — parsnip seed loses viability rapidly after one year.

Broad beans can be direct-sown outdoors in mild areas and well-drained soils from late February. Sow 5cm deep, 20cm apart in double rows 25cm apart. Protect with cloches or fleece if cold weather is forecast. The variety Aquadulce Claudia is the best choice for early outdoor sowings.

Early peas such as Feltham First or Meteor can go in under cloches in sheltered spots from late February. Sow in a flat-bottomed trench 5cm deep, spacing seeds 5-7cm apart. Cover with cloches or fleece to protect from frost and pigeons.

Planting Sets and Tubers

Shallot sets are one of the easiest and most rewarding crops to plant in February. Push sets gently into prepared soil so the tip is just showing above the surface, spacing them 15cm apart in rows 30cm apart. Shallots planted now will be ready to harvest in July, each set multiplying into a cluster of 6-10 bulbs.

Onion sets can go in from late February in mild areas or well-drained soil. Space them 10cm apart in rows 30cm apart, with the tip just visible. Onion sets planted now produce larger bulbs than those planted later in spring, because they have a longer growing season.

Jerusalem artichokes are virtually indestructible once established and February is the ideal planting month. Plant tubers 15cm deep and 30cm apart. They grow tall (2-3 metres) and make an excellent windbreak for exposed vegetable gardens. Be aware that they spread enthusiastically — plant where you are happy for them to stay, or grow in a contained bed.

Harvesting Overwintered Crops

February harvests come entirely from crops sown or planted the previous year. Make the most of them — they have been standing in the cold for months, and their flavour is often at its best right now.

Leeks — lift as needed by pushing a fork straight down alongside the stem and levering upwards. February leeks are at peak flavour, sweet and tender after months of cold weather.

Brussels sprouts — pick from the bottom of the stem upwards, snapping off firm buttons. The top rosette of leaves can be cooked as spring greens.

Parsnips are sweetest after a hard frost, which converts their starches to sugars. February parsnips are often the best of the entire season.

Kale and winter cabbage continue to provide sturdy, nutritious greens. Kale leaves harvested in cold weather are noticeably sweeter than those picked in autumn.

Purple sprouting broccoli often starts producing its prized spears in late February, and it is one of the most eagerly anticipated harvests of the year. Pick the central head first to encourage side shoots, and check plants every few days — the spears go from perfect to flowering in just a few warm days.

Flowers to Plant and Enjoy in February

February is a month of transition in the flower garden. Winter is not quite over, but the first signs of spring are unmistakable. The garden may look bare, but beneath the surface, bulbs are pushing upwards and shrubs are readying themselves to burst into leaf. This is a month for maintenance, preparation and enjoying the brave early flowers that defy the cold.

Pruning and Maintenance

Winter-flowering shrubs such as winter jasmine and mahonia should be pruned immediately after their flowers fade. Cut back flowered stems to strong new growth lower down the plant. This keeps them compact and encourages vigorous flowering next winter.

Ornamental grasses that were left standing through winter for their architectural interest should now be cut back hard to ground level. New growth will emerge from the base within a few weeks, and cutting the old stems away allows the fresh shoots to grow unimpeded.

Snowdrops can be divided "in the green" — immediately after flowering while the leaves are still fresh and green. Lift clumps carefully with a fork, tease them apart into smaller groups of 3-5 bulbs, and replant immediately at the same depth. This is the most reliable way to increase your snowdrop collection, as dried bulbs planted in autumn often fail.

Hydrangeas benefit from a February prune. Remove the old, faded flower heads by cutting just above the first strong pair of buds below each flower head. Do not cut any lower, or you risk removing the buds that will produce this year's flowers. On mophead varieties, this light pruning is all that is needed.

Sowing and Planting

Sweet pea trenches should be prepared now if you have not done so already — dig a trench 30cm deep and fill the bottom with well-rotted compost or spent mushroom compost. If you sowed sweet pea seeds in January, they should be growing on in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. If not, sow now in deep pots (root trainers are ideal) and keep frost-free. Nip out the growing tips when plants have 4-5 pairs of leaves to encourage bushy growth.

Hardy annuals such as cornflowers, calendula and larkspur can be sown under cover in February for planting out in April. Sow in modules or small pots and keep in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse.

Flowers in Bloom

February sees the first real stirrings of spring colour. Crocuses push through even frozen ground, their vivid purple, yellow and white flowers a welcome sight after months of grey. Snowdrops carpet woodland edges and sheltered borders. Winter aconites provide bright yellow cups surrounded by ruffs of green leaves. Together, these early bulbs prove that the garden is never truly dormant — and they are vital for early-flying bumblebees searching for their first nectar of the year.

Fruit in February

Bare-root fruit trees — February is your last realistic month for planting bare-root fruit trees and bushes before they break dormancy and start into growth. Apple trees, pear trees, plum trees and cherry trees should all be in the ground by the end of the month. Plant into well-prepared holes with a stake for support, and water in thoroughly even if the ground is moist. Bare-root trees establish faster and grow more vigorously than containerised trees, and they cost significantly less.

Feed fruit trees and bushes with a general-purpose fertiliser such as Growmore or fish, blood and bone in late February. Scatter around the base of each tree or bush, extending to the drip line (the outer edge of the canopy), and lightly fork into the surface. This feeds the roots just as they become active, fuelling strong spring growth and a good fruit set.

Autumn-fruiting raspberries should be pruned now. Cut all canes to ground level — they fruit on new growth produced this year, so every cane from last year can be removed without hesitation. This is one of the simplest pruning jobs in the fruit garden.

Net fruit bushes against birds as buds start to swell. Bullfinches are particularly destructive, stripping the developing buds from gooseberries, currants and cherries long before you notice the damage. Drape netting over the bushes and secure at ground level — birds are remarkably persistent at finding gaps.

Mulch around fruit trees with a thick layer (7-10cm) of well-rotted farmyard manure or garden compost. Keep the mulch clear of the trunk to prevent bark rot. Mulching retains moisture, suppresses weeds and slowly feeds the soil. Use the mulch calculator to work out exactly how much you need.

Order summer-fruiting strawberry plants now for delivery and planting in March or April. Choose virus-free certified stock for the best yields. Varieties like Elsanta, Cambridge Favourite and Florence are proven performers in UK gardens.

Regional Planting Adjustments

February weather varies enormously across the UK. Southern England can feel almost spring-like by late February, while Scotland and northern England may still experience hard frosts, snow and frozen ground. Adjust your timing accordingly — rushing to sow outdoors in cold, wet soil does more harm than good.

The golden rule for February: if the soil sticks to your boots, it is too wet to work. Wait for a dry spell before digging, forking or sowing outdoors. Working waterlogged soil damages its structure and creates compacted clods that take months to break down.

Common February Planting Mistakes

1. Sowing too early without enough light. Tomatoes, peppers and chillies sown in February need a bright windowsill or grow lights. Without sufficient light, seedlings become tall, pale and leggy — weak plants that never truly recover. If you do not have a south-facing windowsill or supplemental lighting, wait until early March.
2. Working waterlogged soil. The temptation to get out and dig on the first mild day is strong, but working wet soil damages its structure. Squeeze a handful — if it clumps into a ball, it is too wet. Wait for a few dry days or use covers to dry out specific beds before sowing.
3. Forgetting to chit potatoes. Chitting gives potatoes a 2-3 week head start over unchitted tubers. Start them now and they will be ready to plant the moment conditions allow in March or April. Stand them in egg boxes, rose end up, in a cool light spot.
4. Planting bare-root trees too late. Bare-root fruit trees and bushes must be in the ground before they break dormancy. February is your last realistic window — once buds start to swell in March, bare-root planting becomes risky. If trees arrive and the ground is frozen, heel them into a temporary trench or keep the roots wrapped and moist.
5. Ignoring overwintered crops. Leeks, Brussels sprouts, parsnips and kale are still standing in the garden and producing excellent food. Harvest them now — they will not improve by being left longer, and the space they occupy will be needed for spring sowings. Purple sprouting broccoli is particularly time-sensitive: pick the spears before they flower.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where to Buy Seeds and Plants in the UK

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Useful Gardening Tools

Planning your February planting? These free calculators help you work out exactly how much you need.