What to Plant in November

Vegetables to Plant and Harvest in November

November marks the transition from autumn to winter in the vegetable garden. The growing season for most crops is over, but there is still important planting to do — and a surprisingly generous harvest to enjoy from the hardiest winter vegetables. This is the month to put garlic in the ground, clear spent crops, and prepare your soil for next year.

Garlic — Your Most Important November Planting

Garlic needs a cold period (vernalisation) to trigger bulb formation, making autumn planting essential in the UK. If you did not plant in October, November is your last reliable chance. Choose a sunny, well-drained spot and avoid anywhere that held onions, leeks or garlic in the previous two years to prevent the build-up of white rot in the soil.

Split a bulb into individual cloves and plant each one 5cm deep, 15cm apart, with the pointed end facing upwards. Space rows 30cm apart. Softneck varieties like Solent Wight and Picardy Wight are the most reliable for UK conditions, while hardneck varieties like Lautrec Wight produce fewer but larger cloves with a more complex flavour. Water in after planting but do not feed — garlic needs no additional fertiliser until spring.

Garlic planted now will sit quietly through winter, putting down roots before the ground freezes. Growth resumes in March and bulbs are ready to harvest the following July, once the lower leaves begin to turn yellow. That is eight months in the ground, making garlic one of the longest-growing vegetables — but also one of the most rewarding.

Overwintering Crops

Broad beans sown in November will overwinter as small seedlings and produce an early crop the following May — several weeks ahead of spring-sown plants. Choose hardy overwintering varieties such as Aquadulce Claudia or The Sutton (a dwarf variety excellent for small gardens and exposed sites). Sow seeds 5cm deep, 20cm apart in double rows 25cm apart. In colder areas, protect seedlings with cloches or fleece if temperatures drop below -5°C.

Onion sets — overwintering varieties like Radar, Shakespeare and Electric Red can still be planted in early November. Push sets into the soil so just the tip is visible, 10cm apart in rows 25cm apart. These will establish roots before winter and produce an early harvest from June, beating spring-planted onions by a good month.

Rhubarb crowns — November to March is the traditional planting window. Plant crowns with the growing point just at or slightly above soil level, in deeply dug soil enriched with plenty of well-rotted manure. Space plants 90cm apart. Do not harvest any stalks in the first year — let the plant establish a strong root system. By the second year, you can begin pulling stalks from March.

Soil Improvement

November is the ideal month to improve your soil for next year. As you clear away spent crops, dig in generous amounts of well-rotted manure or garden compost. Spread a layer 5-8cm deep over empty beds and either dig it in or leave it on the surface as a mulch — earthworms will work it into the soil over winter. Heavy clay soils benefit enormously from autumn digging, as winter frost breaks up large clods into a fine, workable tilth by spring.

If you are creating new growing areas, November is the best time to start. Use our soil calculator to work out exactly how much topsoil you need, or try our compost calculator to determine how much organic matter to add to existing beds.

Protecting Winter Crops

Crops still in the ground — leeks, parsnips, Brussels sprouts, kale — are hardy enough to survive British winters, but a covering of horticultural fleece extends the harvest window and keeps produce in better condition. Fleece also protects overwintering broad beans and onion sets from the worst of the cold and wind.

Apply a thick mulch (8-10cm) of straw, bark chippings or well-rotted compost around the base of any crops remaining in the ground. This insulates the soil, suppresses weeds and prevents the ground from freezing solid — making it much easier to harvest root vegetables during cold spells. Our mulch calculator helps you work out exactly how much material you need.

Harvesting November Vegetables

November brings some of the finest flavours of the year from the vegetable garden. The cold actually improves many winter crops, converting starches to sugars and producing sweeter, more complex flavours.

Brussels sprouts are at their absolute best after the first hard frost. Pick from the bottom of the stem upwards, twisting each sprout to snap it cleanly from the stalk. A single plant can produce sprouts from November right through to February if you leave the top intact and harvest progressively.

Leeks — lift as needed with a fork, loosening the soil on one side before pulling. They stand well in the ground through winter, so harvest only what you need for the next few days. Leek and potato soup is one of the great comfort foods of November.

Parsnips — like Brussels sprouts, parsnips become noticeably sweeter after frost. Lift carefully with a fork to avoid snapping the roots. They can be left in the ground and harvested throughout winter, right through to March. Roast them with honey for an unforgettable side dish.

Kale is almost indestructible in British winters. Harvest outer leaves as needed, leaving the growing point to continue producing. Cavolo nero, curly kale and red Russian kale all stand through the coldest months.

Celeriac, swede and winter cabbage are all ready for lifting now. Jerusalem artichokes can be dug as needed — they keep best in the ground rather than in storage. Late carrots should be lifted before a prolonged hard freeze, or protected with a thick mulch of straw.

Flowers to Plant in November

November may seem like the end of the gardening year for flowers, but one of the most important bulb plantings of the entire year happens this month. It is also the time to tidy borders, plant bare-root roses and set the stage for a spectacular spring display.

Tulip Bulbs — The Star Planting of November

Tulips are the one bulb that should be planted in November rather than earlier in autumn. Waiting until now, when the soil temperature has dropped below 10°C, dramatically reduces the risk of tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae), a devastating fungal disease that thrives in warmer soil. Professional growers and parks departments across the UK all follow this late-planting strategy.

Plant bulbs 15-20cm deep (deeper planting produces sturdier stems and helps bulbs perennialise) and 10-15cm apart. Group them in clusters of 7-15 for maximum visual impact rather than planting in single rows. Choose a well-drained spot — tulips rot in waterlogged soil. Mix in grit at the bottom of the planting hole on heavy clay soils. For a naturalistic display, try tossing handfuls of bulbs and planting them where they land.

Bare-Root Roses

Bare-root roses become available from November and offer far better value than container-grown specimens. Plant them while dormant, in deeply dug soil enriched with well-rotted manure and a handful of bonemeal. Soak roots in water for 2-3 hours before planting. Position the graft union (the swollen joint where the stems meet the roots) just below soil level. Firm in well and water thoroughly.

Border Maintenance

Cut back herbaceous perennials that have finished flowering and are looking untidy — delphiniums, geraniums, astilbe and day lilies can all be cut to ground level. However, leave any with attractive seed heads (such as sedum, echinacea and ornamental grasses) standing through winter — they provide structure in the garden, shelter for beneficial insects and look beautiful rimmed with frost on cold mornings.

Clear fallen leaves from borders, lawns and around the base of plants. Wet leaves left on crowns of herbaceous perennials can cause rotting. Collect them up and add them to a leaf mould bin — in 12-18 months they will break down into beautiful, crumbly leaf mould, one of the finest soil conditioners available.

Winter-prune climbing roses — tie in new growth, remove dead and crossing stems, and shorten side shoots to 2-3 buds. Training stems as close to horizontal as possible encourages more flowering shoots to break along the length of the stem, giving you a much better display next summer.

Fruit in November

Bare-root fruit trees — November is widely considered the best month to plant bare-root fruit trees. Apple, pear, plum and cherry trees are all available as bare-root specimens from specialist nurseries, and they cost significantly less than container-grown trees. The soil is still relatively warm from summer, which encourages root establishment before the coldest months arrive. Dig a hole twice the width of the root spread, drive in a stake on the windward side before planting, and backfill with the original soil mixed with a little compost. Do not add fertiliser at planting — it can scorch new roots.

Prune apple and pear trees once the leaves have fallen and the branch structure is clearly visible. November is the start of the winter pruning season (November to February). Remove dead, diseased and crossing branches first. Then thin out overcrowded growth to allow light and air into the centre of the tree. Make clean cuts with sharp secateurs or a pruning saw, and do not leave stubs — cut back to a bud or to the branch collar.

Plant raspberry canes — bare-root raspberry canes go in from November to March. Plant them 45cm apart in rows, with the top of the root ball just below soil level. Summer-fruiting varieties need a support framework of posts and wires; autumn-fruiting varieties are more self-supporting. Mulch the row with a thick layer of well-rotted compost after planting.

Mulch around existing fruit trees with a generous layer (8-10cm) of well-rotted manure or bark chippings, keeping the mulch away from the trunk to prevent bark rot. This suppresses weeds, retains moisture and slowly feeds the roots. Calculate how much mulch you need with our free tool.

Regional Planting Adjustments

By November, the entire UK has entered the dormant season, but conditions vary significantly between the mild south-west coast and the frozen uplands of Scotland. Timing and protection needs differ accordingly.

The key message for November across all regions: get garlic and tulips in the ground, plant bare-root trees and roses while dormant, harvest winter vegetables as needed, and prepare the soil for next year.

Common November Planting Mistakes

1. Planting tulip bulbs too early. Tulips planted in September or October are far more susceptible to tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae), a fungal disease that ruins bulbs and foliage. Wait until November when the soil temperature has dropped below 10°C. This cold soil suppresses the fungus and produces healthier, stronger plants in spring.
2. Planting garlic from the supermarket. Supermarket garlic is often imported softneck garlic not suited to UK growing conditions, and may carry diseases. Always buy certified virus-free seed garlic from a reputable supplier. UK-bred varieties like Solent Wight, Picardy Wight and Lautrec Wight are specifically selected for British climates.
3. Leaving fallen leaves on the lawn. A carpet of wet leaves blocks light and traps moisture, causing yellow patches and encouraging fungal diseases in the grass. Rake leaves weekly and compost them for leaf mould. A thin scattering is fine, but thick layers must be removed promptly.
4. Not protecting newly planted broad beans. While overwintering broad bean varieties are hardy, young seedlings can be damaged by hard frost or heavy snow in exposed areas. Cover with cloches, fleece or a simple tunnel of polythene until plants are well established. In sheltered southern gardens, this may not be necessary.
5. Digging waterlogged soil. If your soil is saturated after heavy rain, wait for it to drain before digging. Walking on or working waterlogged clay soil compacts it, destroying the structure and creating a hard pan that roots cannot penetrate. Wait for drier conditions, or lay planks to distribute your weight across the surface.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where to Buy Bulbs, Seeds and Bare-Root Plants in the UK

Ready to plant? These UK suppliers stock tulip bulbs, garlic, bare-root trees and everything you need for November gardening.

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Useful Gardening Tools

Planning your November planting? These free calculators help you work out exactly how much you need.